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Tube molds (column molds) are made of rigid styrene plastic that yields 10" long lengths of soap, perfect for embedding in loaf pans, PVC pipes, individual soap molds, or slice them and use them like they are for guest soaps. Can be used with either cold process or melt and pour soap.

This photo shows how to clamp the two halves together, using "binder clips" that can be found in any office supply or drug store. Complete directions are at the bottom of this page.

This is what they look like sliced and ready to go! The inserts have been made using clear glycerin melt and pour soap, then they've been embedded in the white glycerin melt and pour soap. Just imagine what you could do with them....they'd be wonderful in either the clear or the white melt and pour soap, or just like they are....slice to any thickness, and use as little guest soaps.

CODE	TYPE	ITEM	PRICE
CMAN		Animal 1 1/8" X 1 1/2"	$7.50	Quantity:

DIRECTIONS FOR USING YOUR COLUMN MOLDS

The two-part column molds are made of strong, rigid styrene plastic, helping ensure a long and happy life. Each mold yields a 10" length of soap, perfect for imbedding into loaf pans, PVC pipes or individual soap molds.

The molds are suitable for melt and pour as well as cold-process soap making; they also work beautifully for gel candle crafting. Please note: the hotter the temperature of your M&P soap or wax, the thinner the solution becomes. This may cause leakage, so it's wise to monitor the pour temperature. Care and consideration for the pour temperature must also be given with cold-process soap making. Column molds have a very large surface area relative to the volume of soap contained within, and heat necessary for complete saponification can be quickly dissipated. If you experience curing difficulties, try raising the pour temperature to 115-125 degrees F.

ASSEMBLING YOUR COLUMN MOLD

The inner half of each two-part mold is designed with a pour spout at the end of the column. The spout is solid plastic. An opening must first be cut across the top of the spout with a hacksaw; do not use kitchen, utility or X-acto knives! Styrene plastic is very strong and "slippery"- one mistake with a knife could cause painful and needless injury.

If you want to cut off the entire top of the mold (and not just the spout), please bear in mind that the interlocking "rim" surrounding the design lends strength and rigidity to the entire mold.

After sawing off the top of the pour spout, place the two halves of the mold together and check for fit. One half (the smaller "inner" half) should nestle snugly within the larger "outer" half of the mold, with both halves in direct contact up and down their entire lengths.

Occasionally, an inner half will be a bit long, preventing the two parts of the mold from fitting perfectly. This is very easy to remedy with a pair of scissors. Trim a sliver of plastic (1/16 inch will probably be enough) from either the top or the bottom of the inner mold. Before clamping, place the two halves together and make sure they're aligned to produce the correct design. With shapes such as the star and heart, there's no proper "up and down," but for shapes such as the fish, it's very easy to end up with half of a head affixed to half of a tail! And if you've purchased several of our column molds, it can sometimes be confusing to remember which halves go together, since some of the cross-sectionals look very similar.  We recommend that you use a waterproof pen to label the two halves to reduce the possibility of confusion.

Medium or large binder clips are ideal for clamping the molds together. These clips can be purchased at any office supply store. Attach two clamps to each side of the mold and one clamp to the bottom, taking care to push the clamp as close to the design as possible. This helps prevent leakage.

POURING SOAP INTO YOUR COLUMN MOLD

How can you stabilize these awkward molds for pouring? A very easy and inexpensive solution is the purchase of a 5-quart plastic utility bucket; you can find these at any hardware or paint supply store. One bucket holds 4 or 5 column molds, including clamps. When cold-processing, insulate the bucket with towels or blankets.

BUILDING A WOODEN SOAP STAND

Another simple solution is the construction of a wooden mold stand. You don't need much in the way of carpentry skills, and it requires just 4 feet of 2x4 lumber, 4 nails and 3 to 4 feet of dowel or metal rods.

The size of your stand will depend upon how many columns you pour at a time; a one-foot long base will easily accommodate 7 to 8 columns. The height of the two uprights should be approximately 17 to 18 inches; this takes into account the height of the molds, as well as the clamp at the end of the mold.

Saw the base to the desired length, then measure and cut the two upright ends. Before nailing the ends to the base, you'll need to drill 4 holes (two per upright) through which the dowels or metal rods will run. Quarter inch dowels are sturdy enough for holding the weight of several soap-filled columns. For a 1/4 inch dowel, drill a 5/16 inch hole, as this will enable the easy movement of the dowels in and out of the holes.

How far apart will the two sets of double holes need to be spaced? You first need to drill holes in your column molds. These holes will serve as a template for the holes in the stand.

Place the two halves of the column mold together. Using the 5/16th inch bit, drill two holes in the corners next to the pour spout. Now align the top of the column mold with the top of the wooden upright (the width of the mold will be almost identical to the width of the 2x4), then pencil two marks onto the wood using the holes in the mold as your guide. Repeat on the second piece of wood, then drill a total of 4 holes using the 5/16th inch bit. Nail the two uprights to the base. Your stand will resemble a giant letter "U."

Push two dowels through one end of the stand, then slide the molds on. (They'll look like clean white laundry hanging on a wash line!)  Aside from the ease of pouring into perfectly vertical molds, another great advantage is the ability to quickly remedy leaking molds with an extra clamp or two. When molds are crowded together in buckets or cardboard boxes, it's difficult to spot a leak then disentangle the clamped molds before the soap has drained away.

After pouring your M&P soap (or gel wax), allow to cool completely before unmolding. Cool, firm soap releases much more readily than warm, slightly bendable soap.

You may need to "trip" your soap after unmolding.  Small amounts of soap can seep into the vertical seams where the two mold halves meet, creating a faint crease up and down the column. It's often barely noticeable, but if it bothers you, pare it off with a small knife or X-Acto blade.

CLEANING YOUR COLUMN MOLDS

These column molds are sturdy and durable, but they're made of plastic and all plastics warp with excessive heat. Don't run them through a dishwasher. Soap-covered molds can be soaked in lukewarm water for a half-hour then rinsed clean.

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